The Peperomia Rana Verde is a hybrid bred from two parent Peperomia Albovittata plants. This is why you’ll sometimes see it named as Peperomia Albovittata Rana Verde, which is its actual full name.
It is also worth mentioning that people often confuse it or interchange it with two other plants (for varying reasons). These are the:
- Peperomia Piccolo Banda – which looks like the Rana Verde. But the biggest difference is their color. The Piccolo Banda features darker green leaves with nearly black colored ridges. On the other hand, the Peperomia Rana Verde has a lighter green foliage color with no distinctive hue on its ridges. Therefore, the ridges look more like indentations. Also, the Rana Verde has larger leaves while having a more compact growth habit. It is also worth noting that the Piccolo Banda is a close relative though being a Peperomia Albovittata as well.
- Peperomia Obtipan – is often confused with the Peperomia Rana Verde because of its roundish green leaves. But if you look closely, there are distinctive differences. For one, the Obtipan has not ridges and the surface of the leaves are smoother as well. Color-wise, the Obtipan is also greener (more of a pure green or saturated green compared to the Peperomia Rana Verde). Its leaves are also thicker leaves that kind of face upwards more.
With that out of the way, let’s focus more on the Peperomia Rana Verde.
The plant features a lovely compact form (although some stems can get long). Thus, you can let it grow out to trail.
That said, its leaves and stems are the stars of the show.
The former have heart shapes and emerald green color with rippled ridges along the veins. Its stems are thin and have a nice reddish color that contrasts well with the green foliage.
It can likewise flower giving you green spikes.
Best of all it is easy to care for and adapts well to household conditions.
Peperomia Rana Verde Plant Care
The Peperomia Rana Verde thrives in moderate to bright, indirect light. It can also take low light with no problems at all.
The key it to give the plant enough light. And the easiest way I’ve been able to tell is to take a book or magazine, sit down and read it.
If you can read the text in the book easily and do so all day long without having to turn on any lights (other than natural light from the window), then your Rana Verde will have enough light.
On the other hand, if your home does not get ideal natural lighting, the plant will likewise be happy under fluorescent lighting or grow lights. Although it will need at least 10-12 hours or so of exposure compared to the 4-6 hours of sunlight.
That said, it will grow faster and produce more leaves (with better color) given brighter light.
The caveat here is direct sunlight and overly intense light. Keep the plant away from these as both offer too much intensity.
If you leave the plant in these conditions for hours at a time or on a regular basis, its leaves will eventually get damaged. This can be from discoloration or even leaf burns.
The Peperomia Rana Verde is a native of the tropical forests of South America. This makes it used to moderate to hot environments all year long.
But because it is a short plant that ends up living under the forest canopy, it spends a lot of time under shade. Thus, it actually experiences more moderate conditions with some exposure to hot seasons.
Therefore, the best temperature for the plant is between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Although it can easily tolerate climates that go up into 90 to 100 degree weather.
This is a condition I’ve seen it live in while visiting Southeast Asia. During the summers, daily temperatures there typically stay above 90 degrees. And the plant never had any issues living indoors, in patios, terraces or even in yards or gardens.
On the other hand, keep your Peperomia Rana Verde away from temperatures that stay consistently below 50 degrees. It is not accustomed to cold weather and is not able to tolerate frost or winter conditions.
The plant is ideal for USDA Hardiness Zones 10 through 12. And below these regions, it needs to be brought indoors or to a warmer spot before the climate drops to 50 degrees.s
Ideally, the Peperomia Rana Verde prefers humidity between 60% and 90%. But thanks to its fleshy succulent-like leaves, it is able to tolerate moderate humidity (30% to 50%).
Its leaves feel this way because they store moisture. In doing so, they allow the plant to tolerate drier air without any problems.
This makes it easier to take care of the plant indoors where most homes typically have humidity levels in the 30% to 50% ranges.
That said, the less hydrated the plant is, the less it will be able to tolerate the lower end of that range.
This is why some growers will check the leaves and feel how firm they are. As long as they feel firm, they have water. But if they get soft to the touch, it is not as well hydrated.
I don’t particularly like misting the Peperomia Rana Verde because it is sensitive to too much moisture. This increases the risk of fungus gnats and potentially overwatering.
That said, there should be no problem spraying it with water if humidity is low or using a humidifier. But, you want to be mindful of its moisture situation.
So, I tend to let it be (without any issues) unless its leaves show side effects of low humidity like drying, crisping, curling or dropping.
So far, they have not.
How Often to Water Peperomia Rana Verde
The reason I like staying cautious with moisture when it comes to the Peperomia Rana Verde is that I’ve lost some peperomia to overwatering.
This happened when I started caring for them and did so as I would other houseplants.
That was wrong!
The plant is much more sensitive compared to other houseplants when it comes to overwatering. Unfortunately, humidity (being air moisture) is very closely related with soil moisture.
Generally, the higher the humidity is, the less you need to water and vice versa.
That said, there are a few reasons that make the Peperomia Rana Verde easily susceptible to too much water.
- Small roots – the plant does not grow a lot of roots. It you take them out and compare with other houseplants, you’ll immediately see its root volume is much less than other plants.
- Delicate roots – in addition to fewer roots, these are very delicate as well. They are easily damaged and overwhelmed by overwatering.
- Fleshy stems – while this helps against drought, it also makes the plant more susceptible to too much water since it already has water stores (then you add more moisture).
As such, the best way to water the Peperomia Rana Verde is to allow it to dry quite a bit before watering.
- If you like to water, this means waiting for at least the top 2 inches of soil to dry out between waterings.
- If you often end up being late or forgetting to water, then the Rana Verde is perfect for you. That’s because it is very tolerant of dry (thanks to its fleshy leaves). And watering later reduces the risk of overwatering. As long as you water when the soil is dry 50% to 75% of the way down, it will be happy.
With the latter, the only thing to watch out for is letting the soil go completely dry and allowing it to stay dry for extended periods.
When you water, do so deeply. This means soaking the soil all the day until liquid drips from the holes of the pot. This will let the roots get the drink they want.
Then immediately let the plant completely drain.
The second step is just as essential as the first. This way, you end up with moist soil with no water puddles or pooled water. The soil will not be wet or soggy either.
Thus, having drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to let the excess moisture escape is necessary.
Peperomia Rana Verde Potting Soil
Due to its sensitivity to overwatering and waterlogging, getting the potting soil right is very important when it comes to the Peperomia Rana Verde.
Fortunately, it is quite easy to do so.
The best soil for the plant is well-draining and provides enough aeration. You also don’t want to use overly wide or deep pots since this increases the volume of the soil which will hold more moisture when watered.
This is why many shops will sell smaller peperomia in 2 or 4 inch pots.
As far as soil goes, a peat-based mix with good drainage works really well.
Simple combinations you can use are:
- Peat moss and perlite or coarse sand
- Potting soil and perlite or sand
You can use peat moss or potting soil depending on what you already have at home. The perlite (or sand) is what makes the soil lighter (for more air) and well-draining (get rid of excess water).
That’s because regular potting soil tends to hold too much water for the plant.
One you get past watering (and master it for the Peperomia Rana Verde), everything else is simple. This is what makes the plant an easy to care houseplant.
Standard fertilizer works quite well for the plant.
You want to add fertilizer to give the plant proper nutrients. That’s because soil usually will not have enough nutrients to keep support good growth.
If you buy a new plant from the store, many will usually have some kind of fertilizer. But you never know whether the fertilizer dose is for 3, 6 or more months.
Also, you can never tell how long the plant has been sitting in the shelves before you bought it. If the fertilizer was added 5 months ago and it is now 6 months after by the time you buy it, then that fertilizer is used up already.
For this reason, I like to isolate the plant when I first buy it, then change the soil so I know what I’m working with. A few times the soil you get from the store is not ideal either (especially with peperomias) since some nurseries will just use the same mix for many plants.
In any case, when it comes to fertilizer, start lightly and observe.
Apply only during the growing season. I like to start with a quarter strength and work up to half strength. This is why I like to use liquid fertilizer. It is easy to use.
Just add more or less water to the fertilizer solution to dilute it to the level you want.
There’s no need to feed the plant during winter.
The Peperomia Rana Verde is a small plant that can grow to anywhere from 4 to 12 inches tall. In most cases it will be around 8 to 10 or so inches high and wide.
Similarly, it is a slow grower and will take about 10 years to reach maturity. So, there’s really no hurry.
The biggest advantage of this is that you can keep in on desktops, shelves and almost anywhere in your home or office.
Also, it is very easy to move. All you need is the strength of just a few fingers.
Its size also means that pruning is minimal. However, I won’t go as far to say that you won’t need to prune it.
That’s because the stems can get long. And they will grow towards different directions. Depending on how sparse it looks and how wayward the stems get, the plant can look quite messy or at least unkempt.
Therefore, trimming the stems that go in directions that are unruly is in order.
For me, the plant looks best when compact and full. And, you can achieve this by pruning the longer stems that move away from the other leaves.
This growth habit also makes the plant go out of the edges of pot and kind of flop over (at least the ones on the edges). Some people don’t like this look while others love it. So, you get to decide what you prefer.
- If this happens, you have a few choices
- Repot to a larger container if the plant’s roots are outgrowing the pot
- Add an outer pot to make the container part of the plant look bigger
- Give the plant a light trimming
- Move the plant to a hanging pot or basket where the look is better suited for
- Divide the plant into 2 smaller ones (this works better if you have a fairly dense plant)
How to Propagate Peperomia Rana Verde
The most common ways to propagate the Peperomia Rana Verde is from cuttings. You can choose from stem, tip or leaf cuttings. All of them work very well.
In fact, these are the fastest ways to propagate the plant out of the multitude of methods available.
But, the process of doing so, the success rate and amount of time it takes to root and throw out new shoots will vary.
Propagating Peperomia Rana Verde from Stem or Tip Cuttings
- This is my favorite method because it yields the highest success rate and will produce roots (and later shoots and leaves) the fastest.
- It is also quite simple which makes it easy to do at home without any special equipment.
- Take a healthy stem or tip cutting. You’re looking for something about 3 or so inches. Peperomias are small plants and short stems. This can make it trickier to plant in soil or reach the water later on. So, you want to get something long enough. However, avoid very long stems as well.
- Ideally, pick a stem with at least 2 or more leaves. This is not a requirement but it does increase the success rate.
- Once you have the cutting, it is time to decide between water propagation and soil propagation.
- If you choose water propagation, place the stem into the water (cut side down). Make sure a big section of the stem is submerged. This is how the roots will develop. Also, change the water every few days, ideally a week but if you forget don’t worry since 2 weeks is fine). This avoids stagnant water and the risk of pathogens (when the water gets murky). I’ve found changing water once a week increases the rate of propagation success.
- If you choose soil propagation, let the cutting dry a bit. Then dip the cut end in rooting hormone and plant into well-draining soil (50% peat, 50% perlite). Make sure a good section of stem is under the soil. Keep the soil moist and make sure there’s a drainage hole at the bottom of the pot.
- Of the 2 methods, I like soil propagation more because it gives me faster results (and I’m lazy at times). But it does not let you see the roots as they grow. If you want to be able to do that, use water propagation (which is the more popular technique for most people I’ve asked).
- Keep the cutting in a moderate to warm spot with bright, indirect light. Ideally with high humidity.
- If you’re propagating in soil, you can cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase humidity. No need to do that with water propagation since it gets lots of moisture.
- It will take about a month for the roots to grow.
- Wait until the roots get to about 2 inches long and more in volume. This helps a lot with the Peperomia Rana Verde since it has few roots and delicate ones at that.
- So, more roots means better success when moved to potting mix.
Propagating Peperomia Rana Verde Using Leaf Cuttings
Leaf cuttings are easier than stem cuttings because you only need to get the leaf and the petiole. Therefore, you can propagate more than one plant just from one stem (if it has many leaves).
Take a few leaf cuttings. You want to go with quite a few of them because leaf cuttings don’t succeed as well as stem cuttings. This way, there’s no worry if some don’t grow to new plants. Also, they take longer to root. And eventually take longer to throw out new shoots and leaves as well.
When taking the leaves, keep the petioles. Cut this off at the point where it attaches to the stem.
Plant the leaves in a small pot or tray with soil. Keep them spaced out so they have room to grow.
You want the petiole buried into the soil (and even a small part of the leaf is okay).
You can cut larger leaves in half if you want, these will propagate as well.
Keep the soil moist and give the plant similar living conditions as in stem cutting.
In about 4 to 6 weeks or so, the leaves will start producing roots.
How to Repot or Transplant Peperomia Rana Verde
Since the Peperomia Rana Verde is a small plant that does not grow too quickly, repotting is rarely needed. It takes anywhere from 3 to 5 years before you’ll need to repot.
The large range is because its living conditions will affect how quickly it grows. The more sunlight, moderate temperature, high humidity, proper feeding and water, the faster the plant will grow.
However, I do prefer focusing on the plant’s health rather than how quickly it grows. With proper care it will be with you for many years to come. And its biggest size is limited anyways. So, enjoy the plant and keep it healthy. There’s no need to make this a race.
That said, it is a good idea to change the soil (even just at least the top soil) once a year. At most every 2 years.
Is It Toxic/Poisonous to Humans, Cats & Dogs
No. The plant is not toxic. Thus making it safe to keep anywhere in the house. Although, its stems and leaves are not mean to be eaten so kids or pets will still experience unpleasantries if they do so (with no toxic side effects, just the usual gagging and getting stuck with something).
Problems & Troubleshooting
Pests and Diseases
The Peperomia Rana Verde is not prone to pests or diseases. But there are some bugs that like to attack the plant, especially its young leaves.
Younger leaves are the most attractive to these insects. So, I like to always start with the newest or latest formed leaves when inspecting the plant.
The most common problems include, mealybugs, spider mites and scales.
Fortunately, it is easy to get rid of them. You can use neem oil, horticultural oil or insecticidal soap sprays.
I like to give the plant a spraying of water in the sink. You can also use the shower (with a showerhead) to wash off this insects. Try to get all the eggs as well since if you leave these, new pests will grow out in the next few days and keep reproducing.
So, you’ll need to spray for a few more days.